For many visitors to Mexico City, Coyoacán is mostly known as the neighborhood where the Frida Kahlo museum is located. In fact, it's about all I knew as well-that is, until I made the area my home last December. Though it's just a few miles south of the bustling capital's historic center, Coyoacán-which was the headquarters of Hernán Cortés during the Spanish conquest and only became an official borough of the city in 1928-feels like another world altogether.
Today, it's a quiet, family-friendly area with windy cobblestoned streets, beautiful centuries-old architecture color-blocked in all shades of the rainbow, and two main plazas that are always buzzing with vendors, street performers, young couples strolling hand-in-hand, kids squealing, and-on most weekends-weddings at the 16th-century Parish of San Juan Bautista. (It's also where you'll find my favorite tamales in town.)
